A first approach to the Fashion System in Portugal

More than a business, Fashion is a system, and this concept is preponderant in the study that is proposed to be carried out. To begin understanding it, we turn to Reilly (2020, THE FASHION SYSTEM section) who characterizes the Western Fashion system as being:

“ a complex assortment of industries that work together and in tandem to produce, promote, and sell new products. Within the fashion system are forecasters, designers, manufacturers, marketers, merchandisers, sales representatives, managers, promoters, and retailers, each of whom has a role in fostering fashion change."

But in addition to System, another definition must be considered, that of ecosystem, namely, Fashion ecosystem (Corner, 2014).

The Fashion ecosystem is characterized by its intrinsic relationship with the city and urban activity.

The Fashion system and ecosystem in Portugal had to be built, since it only prefigured the zeitgeist, but not the diversified structures that structure a system as we are reminded by the aforementioned.

The implementation of the system in our country, which coincided closely with the emergence of the first Portuguese week, for Abbondanza the creation of institutions dedicated to Fashion is a matter of justice, eliminating the need for young people who wish to dedicate their lives to Fashion to have to leave the country.

Implying the existence of more than one Fashion Week, Luís Pereira in an interview with Observador (Carvalho, 2022) is the one who helps to unravel the function of each organization and the difference between ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion:

“There is a huge difference right from the start. ModaLisboa has been organised by people from the fashion industry from the very beginning. It is an association that works all year round to help designers grow and communicate. Portugal Fashion was born in a different way, with industrialists wanting to be known. (...) It makes sense to separate things. Designers and industry. (...) The people in charge of Portugal Fashion are always changing. Some know, others don’t, how fashion works in Portugal, what designer fashion is, how Portuguese designers live, what their business is like. (...) We [at ModaLisboa] try to do the best with the money we have.”

The responsible for behind the scenes at ModaLisboa, who performs similar functions at Portugal Fashion, adds that Portugal Fashion has always had greater access to state support and that the Government has always tried to work towards the two institutions cooperating.

It is also worth remembering that one of the presidents of Portugal Fashion established the rule that designers who presented their work at the Alfândega do Porto event could not do so at Lisbon Fashion Week.

Although the above quote is extensive, it is considered relevant to include it in this document.

Since, without resorting to opinions, but rather facts communicated in a first-person testimony, about what has been the big issue in the Portuguese Fashion system for years. Although much more could and should be explained about the Portuguese Fashion system and eco-system, it is considered pertinent to clearly distinguish between the two great institutions for the promotion and development of Portuguese Fashion.

P.S. After the publication of the dissertation, in which the above article was included, Portugal Fashion announced the indefinite interruption of its activity and performance. ModaLisboa remains, as in the beginning, the guarantor of the continuity of the Portuguese Fashion System.

Part of the Master's dissertation in Fashion Design "The role of the ModaLisboa Association in the Portuguese Fashion System" by Vera Lúcia Mendes, March 2024.